My feel of Masjid al Haram
By Abdel Aziz Dimapunong
Imam, Masjid Alkhairi, Manila, Philippines
In the Islamic faith, Masjid al Haram is the holiest place on earth. This is because it houses the Holy Kaaba, a cube-shaped structure. The Kaaba is the focal point of the Muslim annual pilgrimage known as Hajj and the random visitation to the Kaaba known as Umrah. The Hajj pilgrimage is one of the five pillars of Islam.
Masjid al Haram is located in the holy city of Mecca, in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Haram is a holy land area bounded by three sides: three miles on one side, seven miles on the second and nine miles on the third side towards Jeddah. The Holy City of Makkah lies 73 kilometers east of Jeddah. Inside the Haram, it is forbidden to hunt or even bother any living creature. It is not allowed to cut trees, not even grass. It is only permitted to kill dangerous animals such as dogs with rabies and the like of snakes, scorpions, rats, etc.
Mecca to the Muslim world is Makkah, the birthplace of prophet Muhammad, peace is on him. It is also the place of revelation of many chapters of the Muslim scripture, the Holy Quran. Mecca is Bacca in this Holy Quran (3.96 Quran). Bacca is actually the entire valley of Makkah. The Holy Kaaba in Makkah is popularly known as the Masjid al Haram. Actually, the Kaaba is inside the Haram which is also inside the city of Mecca.
Background of the Holy Kaaba
It is believed that the Kaaba was built by the first man on earth, Adam. After it was forgotten for a long long time, it was found and rebuilt by prophet Ibrahim with his son, Ishmael (peace is upon them). That was more than 3,000 years ago. Today, the Kaaba stands in the middle of a complex that is popularly known as Masjid al Haram. To some, the Kaaba itself is also known as Masjid al Haram. It is the place which captures the hearts of more than a billion Muslims all over the world. This number is ever increasing because Islam is the fastest growing religion in the world today.
The Holy Kaaba was the first house ever built for the worship of One and Only God, Allah. That is why it is called “Bait-ul-Ateeq”, meaning the oldest house. It is also called “Bait-Ullah”, meaning House of Allah. Muslims all over the world face towards Kaaba whenever and wherever they offer their five daily prayers and supplications. Muslims have been commanded by the Holy Quran to pay homage to the Holy Kaaba. Suratul Imran, the third chapter of the Holy Quran says of the first House, thus: “Surely, the first House founded for mankind is that at Becca, abounding in blessings and guidance for all peoples. In it is manifesting signs; it is the place of Abraham; and whosoever enters it, enters peace” (3:96-97). Other chapters also mentioned the Kaaba. ”And when We assigned to Ibrahim the place of the House (Kaaba), saying: Do not associate with Me aught, and purify My House for those who make the circuit and stand to pray and bow and prostrate themselves.” (Quran, 22:26). The circuit mention is the Hajj ritual of simply walking around the Holy Kaaba in prayer. The Quran also says of the builders of the Kaaba,”And when Ibrahim and Ishmael raised the foundations of the House (Kaaba): Our Lord! Accept from us; surely Thou art the Hearing, the Knowing.” (Quran, 2:127)
Prophet Ibrahim, peace be on him, founded a community of believers on a valley of a desert land by command of the All-Mighty Allah. He settled on this holy land with his wife, Hajira, and his son, Ishmael. From the progeny of Ishmael would come the greatest prophet, Prophet Muhammad, peace is on him. He was prophesized to be a mercy for all mankind. The teaching that he brought down would be for the whole world and for all times.
Inspite of having no sign of any provisions for food at Becca during the time of settlement by prophet Ibrahim, peace is on him, he settled and relied on the merciful provisions of God-Allah. In due time the provisions for food and water came in abundance. Slowly the place was populated and was called Becca. This was the place where Prophet Ibrahim, peace is upon him, found lost signs of the first House of Allah that was original built by Adam. It was built for the worship of the One and Only God-Allah. It was then rebuilt by Prophet Ibrahim with the help of his son, Ishmael. He fervently prayed to Allah to make this House the Place for humanity. Yet, Prophet Ibrahim's message of the One God was gradually forgotten and pagan idolaters violated the sacred Kaaba. Only few kept the faith until Prophet Muhammad, peace is on him, destroyed the myriad of pagan idols in the Kaaba. The prophet restored order and reestablished the manner of Umrah and Hajj.
Around the Kaaba is referred to as Masjid el Haram which includes the rectangular shape of the Kaaba. Pilgrims offer prayers here by facing towards the Kaaba.
The black stone and Zamzam
There is a black stone in one of the corners of the Kaaba. This stone is popularly known as Hajr-e-Aswad. It was probably part of a meteoroid that fell near Mecca. When he was rebuilding the Kaaba, prophet Ibrahim brought the black stone down and placed it inside the Holy Kaaba as a monument. It was prophet Muhammad, peace is on him, and some members of the family of Quraish who placed the black stone in one of the corners of the Holy Kaaba, the place where it is found these days. Kissing the stone is not required but it is not also prohibited. It is optional for anyone and it is not part of the legitimate rituals while performing the Hajj. The stone has no power and it provides neither benefit nor harm to anyone.
There is a small well to the east of the Kaabba known as the Zamzam. There is a small structure in front of the door of the Kaaba which was used by prophet Ibrahim to stand on to complete the walls of the Kaaba. There were two small hills that were located inside the Masjid al Haram. The small hills were still noticeable when I first visited the Holy Kaaba in 1977. Some big stones were still on the hills. I had stepped on them. In my pilgrimage in 1981, I did not notice the two small hills due to more improvements. In my 1986 pilgrimage, I realized that the two small hills were somewhat smoothened if not flattened for convenience.
My first Umrah (visit to the Holy Kaaba)
My first ‘encounter’ with the Holy Kaaba was in 1977 when I made my first visitation known as Umrah. Coming from home a thousand miles away, I traveled alone to see and feel the magnificence of the Oldest House on earth. Masjid al Haram was then not as developed as it is today. But even then it was very hard to give an account of this monumental edifice. I was told by my guides to Makkah not to take pictures and never use my camera at all. I was told that, anyway, there were available post cards of the Holy Kaaba in the nearby convenient stores. Even then, to describe the Holy Kaaba by the expediency of the camera is at once problematic. The camera cannot capture the ambience and the environmental influence of the Holy Kaaba. A post card of the Holy Kaabba can only, at best, serve as a lifeless impression of this edifice.
It was to the credit of prophet Ibrahim that the Holy Kaaba was rebuilt. The influence of prophet Ibrahim is a monumental one. He was the father of Isaac and Ishmael. The two sons are known to be the forefathers of the three great religions, namely: Islam, Christianity and Judaism. No modern machine, much less a camera can capture this influence on the Holy Kaaba. No post card can best describe this object of Quranic times.
On my first Umrah, I tried to scribble some few lines to describe the Holy Kaaba. However, my first experience can be described in a few words. I was amazed and awed. Something deep inside of me decides that I must come back again. I realized that I was only on a visitation that is Umrah. And even if I had succeeded to put a few lines forward to describe the object, the Holy Kaaba’s awesome position in man’s vision and reality simply reduces my eagerness to an insignificant scribble.
In order to capture the reality of the Holy Kaaba, one must be in a state of purity of purpose. There is such a thing as a “state of Ihram” where one is covered with only two pieces of white cloth, along with a million people or more. One must be under a state of regular ablution and in constant prayer and supplication. In summary, the Umrah and the Hajj proper must be in total surrender to the creator. And the best time is during the Hajj proper. Only the certainty of actual sight, touch and smell, and all the human senses in a state of Ihram and purity of purpose, could capture the experience with the Holy Kaaba.
Furthermore, only during the Hajj proper when millions of Muslims around the world participate in the Hajj congregation, could one realize the pilgrimage experience with the Holy Kaaba. Then I said to myself, I must return.
My second Umrah
In 1981, I made my second Umrah just before the month of Ramadhan. I actually had my month-long fasting in that period in Makkah, spending most of my time inside Masjid al Haram. I was fortunate that my visa was conveniently arranged by two influential friends of mind who were sons of a Minister, a cabinet rank in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
By this time, the Masjid al Haram that houses the Holy Kaaba was improved tremendously. It was already a complex that maintains the Kaaba, the Muqam-e-Ibrahim and the fountain of Zamzam, plus all the expansions made through the years. The expansion of the Haram includes some improvements, redecoration of Masjid al Haram, its courtyards and facilities, so that it can accommodate the largest possible number of worshippers.
In my second Umrah, I had noticed that the most advanced technical innovations have been used to facilitate movement and prayer for pilgrims and visitors to the Haram and access to the cooled, pure water of Zamzam.
My first Hajj pilgrimage
In my second Umrah in 1981, I decided to stay in Makkah and waited for the actual period of Hajj after the Ramadhan fasting. This was my first Hajj pilgrimage proper. On this occasion, I personally felt that the Hajj pilgrimage to the Holy Kaaba is one man’s journey into God-Allah’s domain in an earthly time. The way to and from the Holy Kaaba is a real test of will and endurance … an act of sacrifice … and a unique way of worship to God-Allah. The pilgrimage to the Holy Kaaba, and the Masjid al Haram, is a brief pause, bordering on the eternal and final, from the normal drabness of daily living not merely to seek favors (for life is favor itself) from the Almighty God-Allah but to ask for forgiveness and offer thanks for ones life while still blessed with earthly existence.
I personally felt that the Hajj pilgrimage is a confrontation between man’s body and soul … unfettered by conventions – witness and arbitrated only by God-Allah in His own Way.
My second Hajj pilgrimage
I had another occasion to feel the Holy Kaaba when in 1986 I came back for my second Hajj pilgrimage. This time I spent several months in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. I had a visitor’s visa that was sponsored by the Philippine Embassy to Saudi Arabia under the leadership of the late Ambassador Dr. Mauyag M. Tamano. During the period of that visa, I had the occasion to perform my third Umrah with the Ambassador. When my visa expired, I had another one as an official delegate of the Philippines to the International Conference of the World Assembly of Muslim Youth (WAMY). The Youth Assembly sponsored a special flight and travel to the two Holy Cities of Makkah and Medina. Thus, I had the fourth Umrah and a visitation to the Mosque of Prophet Muhammad, peace is on him, in the city of Medina.
I waited for the period of the Hajj pilgrimage, taking advantage of another visa that was sponsored by His Excellency, Dr. Abdul Aziz Al Zowaygh, then Minister of the powerful Ministry of Transportation and Communication in the government of the Royal Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. His Excellency sponsored my visitor’s visa after having met him personally. He granted my visa in my capacity as an Associate Editor of the Majala Al Dawah Magazine. Perhaps my visa was granted in recognition of my published writings about the economic progress of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. I also wrote about the late King Fahd bin Abdulaziz, entitled: “A tribute to a world Muslim leader with a vision”. This article was published by the Majala Al-Dawah magazine with the late King Fahd being featured on the front cover. These were in addition to my other articles about Arab personalities, including the banker Sheikh Saleh Abdullah Kamel, the businessman intellectual Sheikh Saleh Jamjoom, among others. His Excellency, the Minister of Information granted my request for visa after having been endorsed by the Secretary General of the World Muslim League, Dr. Abdullah Omar Nasseef.
The period of the Hajj came and I happily performed my second Hajj proper, a kind of prize as a journalist. At this time, my ‘encounter with the Holy Kaaba was … and is…beyond description, that is, what might be called as ‘accurate’. But I vividly recall that on entering the Masjid al Haram, I felt remorseful…”Found guilty!” – And I was forthwith prepared to accept the verdict. I was tried, yes, and I knew that I was guilty. When I caught sight of the Holy Kaaba again for the nth time, a sweet cold and heavyweight…very perceptively … fell on me… rendering me stunned. During my tawaf (walking around the Holy Kaaba) a complete shyness would always overcome me whenever I would cast my eyes upon the simple structure of the Holy Kaaba. It was so simple indeed but astounding in its magnificence.
During every annual pilgrimage, the Kaaba is the focal point of all hajj rituals from beginning to end. On the last days of the Hajj, on the 12th or the 13th day of Dulhajj, the pilgrim returns to the Kaaba and perform a final Tawaf (walking around the Kaaba). This is the farewell walk around the Kaabba. In my case, after having the farewell walk, I then prayed to Allah for forgiveness. Perhaps I had captured the real experience of the Hajj pilgrimage deep inside of me… so I thought … but just maybe. My farewell was so penetrating deep inside of me because I felt then that my 1986 pilgrimage maybe my last one. I may not be able to come back again. I also recalled the very popular “Last Farewell” sermon of Prophet Muhammad, peace on him. The Last Farewell speech is committed to memory by a number of devoted Imam and Islamic preachers.
Further expansion of Masjid al Haram
After my last Hajj, I still follow how Masjid al Haram continues to develop. I understand that work on a new project began on September 1988. The project includes an expansion, an addition of a new part to the Masjid al Haram. The area of the expansion floors totaled 76,000 square meters, accommodating some 152,000 worshippers. The expansion also includes furnishing the mosque’s outer yards for prayer, an area totaling 85,000 sq. meters and accommodating 130,000 worshippers. This raised the Sacred Mosque’s total area to about 365,000 square meters, accommodating 773,000 worshippers on normal days and more than one million during Hajj season and the holy month of Ramadan. A new air-conditioning system has been devised with a total capacity of 13,500 cooling tons. New toilets were constructed covering an area of 14,000 sq. meters. The construction includes 1,440 toilets, 1,091 ablution areas and 162 drinking water taps. Separate toilets have been set aside for women.
The area of the basement expansion totaled 20,000 square meters accommodating 33,000 worshippers. The area of the first floor totaled 47,000 square meters, accommodating 77,000 worshippers, the area of the roof after improvements totaled 42,000 square meters, accommodating 90,000 worshippers. There are now 56 escalators. The Tawaf area was tiled with heat-dissipating marble, doors were renewed and a library was established. There are 55,000 lighting lamps. The connecting cables have a combined length of 3.5 kilometers.
Further expansion areas towards Al-Souq includes: basement area 19,000 square meters, accommodating 35,000 worshippers; ground floor area 19,000 square meters, accommodating 35,000 worshippers and first floor 16,000 square meters, accommodating 27,000 worshippers.
The current structure covers an area of 356,800 square meters including the outdoor and indoor praying spaces and can accommodate up to 820,000 worshippers during the Hajj period.
It’s been eleven years since my last visit to the Holy Kaaba. How I long to perform another Hajj pilgrimage again and visit the Masjid al Haram.
The current Hajj pilgrimage
The Hajj pilgrimage today, part of December 2006 and part of January 2007 could be the largest ever with an estimated three million pilgrims around the world. The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia has reported that around 1.6 million pilgrims came from abroad as reported by officially registered tour agencies.
Last Monday, January 1, 2007, some of the pilgrims performed their last farewell tawaf. My son, Imam Abdul Qahhar Dimapunong, who is performing his second pilgrimage, said he did his last tawaf last Tuesday. Some did it last Wednesday. But there are those who are still doing it today. After having done their last ritual, the pilgrims should now be on their way home.
There has been no report of any untoward incident this year. There was no stampede or anything of that sort. There was no typhoon. No sandstorm. Al hamdulillah, everyone is safe.
Related article.
My previous blog entitled: “Eidul Adha, a global Muslim Holiday” is very much related to this article. It is actually a part of the historical background of the Kaaba inside Masjid al Haram.
Note. In the manner of Islamic speech and writing, the phrase “peace on him” is always said or written after the mention of Prophet Muhammad, peace on him. This is a mandatory requirement for all Muslims. It is one of the signs of being a Muslim when one does it. On the other hand, it is one of the signs of not being a Muslim, when one disregards this salutation.
Various modern flags on display at the Provincial Capitol of Lanao Del Sur
